Expedition South to Antarctica: Ice, Wildlife, and the Antarctic Circle

Stu Sharpe
Jan 13
3 min read

Updated: Sep 21

On the evening of December 26, the Ultramarine pulled away from South Georgia Island and turned south into the Scotia Sea once again. Bound for the Antarctic Peninsula, everyone’s spirits were high after such an amazing and unforgettable few days.

Two adventurers stand beside the Antarctic flag on the snow-covered Antarctic Peninsula — Ringing in the New Year on the Antarctic Peninsula

27–28 Dec – At Sea

Two days at sea gave us time to rest, take in some presentations, and spend a bit of time on the outer decks bracing the winds and sea spray. On December 27th we passed by Iceberg A23a, which is currently the largest iceberg in the world.

At first, we couldn’t see much at all. Sailing down the calmer, lee side of the iceberg, the poor visibility made the massive ice seem hidden, almost ghostlike. The captain turned the ship around to approach along the windward side, where the visibility was somewhat better. Finally, its size came into perspective — a vast, flat, white expanse stretching to the horizon. It took us over 45 minutes to sail past this massive tabletop iceberg. An astonishing sight, and a reminder of the immense scale of the Antarctic environment.

a close-up view of the walls of the massive A23a iceberg, the largest iceberg in the world — Iceberg A23a

29 Dec – Point Wild, Elephant Island

On the Afternoon of 29 December we pulled into the waters off Elephant Island and the Captain adeptly backed the ship into a small somewhat sheltered bay. From the stern of the ship we looked toward Point Wild, the narrow beach where 22 of Ernest Shackleton’s men spent four and a half Antarctic winter months awaiting rescue. They survived on penguins and seals and were eventually rescued in August 1916. Unfortunately it was too rough to launch the zodiacs for a landing to explore this historic site, but it was very impactful to see the rolling swells breaking on the narrow beach, surrounded by steep cliffs and the nearby tidewater glacier.

A chinstrap penguin colony sits high atop the rugged rocks of Point Wild on Elephant Island — Penguin Colony on Point Wild, Elephant Island

The harsh, rugged, rocky snow-covered coastline of Point Wild on Elephant Island — Shackleton's men sheltered for four and a half Antarctic winter months on the narrow beach that is visible on the right side of this photograph.

30 Dec – Ice and the Polar Plunge

The following morning we found ourselves in the waters of the Antarctic Peninsula. We embarked on the zodiacs to explore Bone Bay and cruise among the striking blue icebergs. Later in Charcot Bay, we braved the Polar Plunge. We have taken the Polar Plunge before, in Antarctic and arctic waters, but for some reason this one just seemed so much colder.

A traveler sits in a zodiac admiring the massive icebergs of bone Bay, on the Antarctic Peninsula — Icebergs of Bone Bay

31 Dec – Hill Bay and Palaver Point

In Hill Bay the weather was perfect for flight operations, so the decision was made to get everyone up for a helicopter flight. The sweeping views of glaciers and mountains were unforgettable. That afternoon we landed at Palaver Point, home to chinstrap penguins and then cruised among the many icebergs. That evening we rang in the New Year as humpback whales surfaced and fed right beside the ship.

An aerial view of the islands, icebergs and glaciers of the rugged and barren Antarctic Peninsula — Bird's-eye view from one of Utramarine's two Airbus H145 helicopters

Chinstrap penguins high up on the rocky outcrops of Palaver Point, with the Ultramarien expedition cruise ship in the background — Chinstrap Penguins

1–3 Jan – Penguins and the Antarctic Circle

At Orne Harbour we visited a chinstrap penguin colony with incredible views from the ridge. Crossing the Antarctic Circle the next day was a highlight, celebrated on deck.

The Fish Islands and Chavez Island brought close encounters with Adelie penguins, whales, and leopard seals. This time of year, penguins were still on nests or tending to tiny chicks — very different from our March 2023 visit when chicks were almost ready for the sea.

An Adelie penguin beats a quick retreat after jumping out of the water onto an ice floe, only to land beside a penguin-eating leopard seal — An Adélie penguin quickly retreats after landing beside a leopard seal on an ice floe.

A zodiac of adventurers cruises through the ice filled waters of Antarctica — Zodiac cruise through the ice

4 Jan – Yalour Islands, Lemaire Channel, Damoy Point

Adelie penguin colonies filled the Yalour Islands. Sailing the Lemaire Channel was unforgettable — calm seas, sheer cliffs, and drifting ice. We made our final landing at Damoy Point among gentoo penguins.

Adélie penguin colony on the rocky outcrops of the Yalour Islands with massive Antarctic glaciers in the background — Adélie penguin colony in the Yalour Islands

An Antarctic adventurer stands at the front of an expedition cruise ship as they pass through the picturesque Lemaire Channel, with steep cliffs and glaciers in the background — Passing through the picturesque Lemaire Channel

5–7 Jan – The Drake Passage and Home

The Drake Passage tested us with some lumpy seas and the outer decks closed at times, but soon we were back in Ushuaia. Two more nights in Buenos Aires eased the transition before heading home.

A black-browed albatross soars past the expedition cruise ship as it crosses the Drake passage — Black-browed Albatross

Reflections

This final chapter of the journey gave us unforgettable memories: Shackleton’s story at Elephant Island, crossing the Antarctic Circle, watching whales beside the ship, and seeing so much life thriving in this barren environment. Passing by the world’s largest iceberg was an unexpected highlight, underscoring the immense scale of this wild, beautiful region. A remarkable end to our three-part adventure.