South Georgia Island – The Serengeti of the South Atlantic
- Stu Sharpe
- Jan 8
- 4 min read
Updated: Aug 11
After a memorable time in the Falkland Islands, the Ultramarine set its course east toward South Georgia. This was a place high on our bucket list, and anticipation was running high as we sailed out of Stanley on the evening of December 20, 2024.
South Georgia Island is often referred to as the Serengeti of the South Atlantic — it certainly did not disappoint.
Two Days on the Scotia Sea
December 21–22, 2024
We experienced some “lumpy” conditions on the Scotia Sea, so the rough seas and a bit of seasickness kept some guests in their cabins.
Although we were at sea there was still plenty to see. Giant petrels, smaller cape petrels, black-browed albatross and the occasional light-mantled albatross kept us company as they followed the ship, soaring effortlessly over the waves.
One of the highlights of these two days at sea was passing close to “A-76B” a colossal 60-square-mile tabletop iceberg that calved from the Ronne Iceshelf in 2021.
Afternoons were filled with presentations by the expedition staff on South Georgia’s wildlife, history, and landscapes. Each talk made us even more eager for landfall and very hopeful that the weather would be kind enough to allow for landings ashore. Guides did their best to manage our expectations, ensuring that we understood that there would likely be situations where high winds and ocean swells would prevent shore landings.
First Impressions of South Georgia
December 23, 2024
Excitement rose as the peaks of South Georgia appeared in the morning light. The rugged mountains, dramatic shorelines, and scattered icebergs were simply beautiful.
Our first outing was a zodiac cruise around Stromness and Leith Harbour. Stromness, an abandoned whaling station, is famous as the final destination of the polar explorer Shackleton’s overland journey across the island to seek rescue for his crew. Due to safety concerns, visitors are not allowed to visit the abandoned whaling stations on South Georgia, but the derelict buildings are now home to many Antarctic fur seals and a few king penguins.
In the afternoon, we landed at Fortuna Bay and experienced our first king penguin colony. It was amazing to walk among the tall, dignified penguins, along with Antarctic fur seals and elephant seals. The wildlife here has no fear of humans and it was our responsibility to maintain safe and respectable distances. The weather was perfect, and wildlife was everywhere. South Georgia Island is often referred to as the Serengeti of the South Atlantic — it did not disappoint.
Christmas Eve with Penguins
December 24, 2024
The day began with a zodiac cruise to a macaroni penguin colony. With their bright yellow crests and zany antics, Macaronis are the rock-stars of all the penguin species.
Later, we landed at St Andrews Bay. This was a wildlife encounter unlike any other: 150,000 breeding pairs of king penguins stretching across the beach and up into the hills. The sights, sounds, and smell combined into an unforgettable, full sensory experience. Fur seals and elephant seals shared the beach, making for a lively and most memorable Christmas Eve.
A Christmas Day in Grytviken
December 25, 2024
We came ashore at Grytviken, South Georgia’s only settlement and former whaling station. Here we visited the museum, explored the rusting remains of the station’s buildings, and paid our respects at Sir Ernest Shackleton’s grave. A toast of Irish whiskey, led by the ship’s historian, felt like a fitting tribute to this famous polar explorer. King penguins, fur seal pups, and elephant seal pups lounged nearby, completely unbothered by our presence.
Farewell to South Georgia
December 26, 2024
Our final day brought a zodiac cruise at Cooper Bay, where macaroni and gentoo penguins nested among the tussock grass and rocks. The gentoos porpoised alongside the zodiac, matching our speed as we moved through the water.
After our last landing at the king penguin colony at Gold Harbour, we boarded the ship, very thankful for the good weather conditions that enabled us to make every planned landing during our four-day visit to the island.
In the evening, the Ultramarine entered the mouth of Drygalski Fjord for our last views of South Georgia before heading out to sea and onward towards the Antarctic Peninsula. The waterway was lined with steep mountains and drifting ice. As the sun set over the icebergs, we realized it would be one of our last sunsets for the next 10 or 11 days as we sailed further south into the Antarctic summer.
South Georgia had lived up to its reputation. It is a place of extraordinary wildlife and wild natural beauty. It is a true bucket-list destination.
Next in the series: In Shackleton's Footsteps at Elephant Island, South Along the Antarctic Peninsula, Crossing the Antarctic Circle and Homeward Bound Across the Drake Passage.
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