Voyage South: From Calgary to the Falkland Islands
- Stu Sharpe
- Jan 1
- 4 min read
Updated: Aug 11
After months of anticipation, we began our journey south on December 11, 2024 for an awesome, 22-day expedition cruise aboard Quark Expeditions’ Ultramarine, that would take us to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and the Antarctic Peninsula.
Our route to the bottom of the world started in Calgary with an afternoon domestic flight to Toronto, followed by a long international leg with Air Canada to São Paulo, Brazil. While it’s always a bit of a hassle to deplane for a crew change in São Paulo, then re-clear security to reboard the same aircraft, we’d done this route before and knew what to expect. By mid-afternoon on the 12th, we arrived in Buenos Aires, and we were quickly reminded of how much we truly enjoy Argentina. It was good to be back in this vibrant city that is so full of life.
Buenos Aires: A City We Keep Coming Back To
This was our third time in Buenos Aires, and we felt more at ease navigating the city. We stayed in the Retiro district, which is central, has a range of hotel options, and offers easy access to many of the city's neighbourhoods. Recoleta is another favourite district of ours, with its leafy streets, galleries, and sidewalk cafés.
We had four full days to explore and made the most of it. The hop-on hop-off bus is a practical way to reach different areas and see many of the city’s key attractions. We wandered the barrios of San Telmo and parks in Palermo, and took in the history and architecture around Recoleta Cemetery. In La Boca, we strolled through the colourful streets near Caminito, where brightly painted buildings, resaurants and small art galleries create a lively, welcoming atmosphere.
On December 16, we changed hotels to link up with our Quark Expeditions tour group for the included overnight stay before our early morning charter flight to Ushuaia the following day.
Ushuaia: Gateway to the Southern Ocean
The charter flight south went smoothly. Flying over Tierra del Fuego, the landscape became increasingly wild and dramatic. Ushuaia was busy as always, full of travellers and cruise-bound guests. This southernmost city in the world has a frontier feel, but also plenty of charm. Previously, in March of 2023, we spent several days here and really enjoyed ourselves (see our blog post). If you ever find yourself sailing from Ushuaia on an expedition cruise to Patagonia or the Southern Ocean, do yourself a favour and spend a couple days exploring Ushuaia and nearby Tierra Del Fuego National Park, you won't regret it.
We had most of the day to walk around town, stretch our legs, and enjoy the mountain air before boarding the Ultramarine in the late afternoon. This would be our second cruise aboard the Ultramarine and it was a pleasure to step aboard again. Familiar faces from the ship's crew and the expedition team greeted us, and it didn’t take long to feel at home. The bar staff even remembered my usual drink, which was served without needing to be ordered. Once everyone was settled we attended mandatory safety briefings as we sailed east down the Beagle Channel. The light lingered into the evening, casting a warm glow across the mountains.
At Sea: Toward the Falklands
December 18 was our first full day at sea. It was a good chance to get to know the ship again and settle into the daily rhythm. Out on deck, we spotted albatrosses, petrels, Commersons dolphins and a couple sei whales. The sea was relatively calm and the birdlife impressive.
West Falkland: Weather Has the Final Say
On December 19, high winds prevented our planned landing on West Falkland. We had been hoping to walk among nesting black-browed albatrosses and view rock-hopper penguins along the wind-swept shores. Unfortunately the conditions weren’t safe for a landing at the primary and alternate landing sites, so the call was made to move on toward Port Stanley.
Stanley: Penguins, Beer, and Island Life
We arrived in Stanley that evening under beautiful light. The following morning, we disembarked for a full day in this small and welcoming capital.
Our first stop was Gypsy Cove. There we saw individual Magellanic penguins resting outside their burrows and many other groups of penguins gathering along the white sand beaches. Other highlights included steamer ducks, vultures, and a nearby night heron rookery.
Back in town, we wandered along the waterfront and stopped in at the excellent Falkland Islands Museum. It’s well worth a visit. Some guests also mailed postcards from the local post office, which remains a popular tradition. Stanley has a few shops and places to eat, and it didn’t take long before we found ourselves at the Victory Bar. The fish and chips were great and we enjoyed a pint of Black Tarn from Falkland Beerworks before returning to the ship.
Sailing On
That evening, the Ultramarine set sail again. Ahead of us were two full days at sea as we made our way to South Georgia.
We very much enjoyed our very short visit to the Falklands. While we were disappointed to miss the wildlife on West Falkland, Stanley made up for it with its charm, penguins, and birdlife. The islands are remote and not always easy to get to, but we would like to return one day and spend a week exploring both East and West Falkland. It’s a rewarding place for travellers willing to make the journey. For mor information on visiting the Falklands, check out the Falkland Islands Tourist Board Website
Next in the series: South Georgia — King Penguins, Elephant Seals, and Ghosts of the Whaling Era
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