A Spirit Bear Journey

Stu Sharpe

5 days ago

5 min read

A Spirit Bear walks across mossy rocks in a dense green forest, looking down in a calm, quiet scene.

It was an absolutely amazing adventure and the wildlife viewing opportunity of a lifetime!

We booked a September 2026 trip with Wildlife Journeys to join Tim Irvin and Marven Robinson in the Great Bear Rainforest in hopes of seeing the very rare and elusive Spirit Bear. It was an absolutely amazing adventure and the wildlife viewing opportunity of a lifetime! Unfortunately Claire came down with pneumonia just before the trip so, sadly, I had to do the trip on my own.

What is a Spirit Bear?

Spirit Bears are American Black bears that possess a rare mutated recessive gene that can produce a creamy-white coloured bear. They are not albinos. Both parent animals (black or white coloured) must possess the mutated gene in order to create the conditions for the possibility of a white coloured offspring. They are extremely rare and, while population estimates may vary, it is thought that there are only 100 - 300 Spirit Bears in existence. It is quite likely that the true number lies at the lower end of that range.

A spirit bear wades through a shallow forest stream beneath moss-covered trees.

Getting There - From Prince Rupert to Hartley Bay

The trip begins and ends in Prince Rupert, British Columbia. That evening before the trip I met some of my fellow travellers, including Ron Hayes who I knew from social media and his role as a host on the Beyond the Wild Podcast. Ron is a great guy and we got along very well.

The trip officially starts with an early morning, three-hour, water taxi ride from Prince Rupert to the Gitga’at First Nation community of Hartley Bay. On arrival we were greeted by Tim and Marven and we made our way up the boardwalk to the guest house. After an orientation session we packed a lunch, grabbed our gear and headed back down to the dock to head out on an afternoon and early evening search for Spirit Bears.

Patiently Waiting for Bears

We boarded Marven’s boat and set out for an island where the Spirit Bears are known to inhabit. Immediately on the walk in there were fresh headless salmon on either side of the trail, a telltale sign of recent coastal wolf activity (wolves only eat the heads because the salmon flesh can contain a parasite that is dangerous to wolves). Once in position we settled in and waited patiently for bears. It wasn’t long before we spotted a black bear sow and her two cubs working their way down towards us, hunting for salmon in the creek.

Three black bears, a mom and two cubs, walking across mossy rocks in a forest stream, their dark fur contrasting with the bright green background.

A Very Moving Experience

It was early evening when we learned that a Spirit Bear had been spotted downstream closer to the creek mouth, so Tim had us quickly pack up and make our way back down the trail. About 75 metres upstream from where the creek spills into the ocean we spotted the bear known locally as ‘Strawberry’. She wasn’t on the creek, but was up the forested hill on the opposite side of the creek. We quickly and quietly stepped off the trail and got into position to observe and photograph the bear. It was just before sunset, we were in the darkness of the temperate rainforest and the light was fading fast. I slowed the shutter speed down steadied the camera and began taking photos. Seeing my first Spirit Bear was a very moving experience and after capturing some images, I took my face away from the back of the camera and just took in the moment.

A Spirit Bear peeks over a moss-covered log in a lush green forest, with a calm, watchful expression. — 'Strawberry' - My First Spirit Bear

The Emotional Bond of Mother and Cub

I knew that she had a young black cub, but from my position I couldn’t see the cub. Eventually I was rewarded with tiny illuminated window into the darkening forest, where Strawberry and her cub were framed, nose-to-nose, by lush, moss-covered deadfall, standing trees and an overhanging moss-covered tree trunk. It is not an exceptional photo by any means, but it captured the moment the emotional bond of mother and cub. It was an awesome “first sighting”.

White Spirit Bear and her black cub touch noses through branches in a green temperate rainforest, calm and curious.

As if that wasn’t good enough, a few minutes later the white bear known as ‘Warrior’ came out of the forest and was downstream from us at the creek mouth. It was after sunset and we were still in the forest but she was out in the open along the coast and the glow of the open ocean behind her provided enough light for some photographs. A few minutes later, with guides lighting the way with flashlights, we made our way out of the forest and loaded the boat for the ride but to Hartley Bay. It was an amazing first day.

A Spirit Bear standing in shallow blue water among rocks, framed by dark branches overhead, ocean in the background

Daily Routine

Each morning coffee was on at 6:00 am; then, after a huge buffet breakfast we packed our lunches and our gear for the day and made our way down to the dock for an 8:00 am departure. We would look for bears on two different drainages so the morning commute varied between 30 minutes to an hour (depending on how long we stopped to photograph humpback whales along the way). We would typically spend about eight hours on the creek, returning back to the guest house for an amazing evening meal.

Humpback whale tail fluke rises from calm water, droplets falling, with misty evergreen forest in the background.

Morning Wolves

On the second day we were rewarded with an awesome coastal wolf encounter. On the morning walk in we caught glimpses of three wolves fishing for salmon well upstream of us. A few of us managed to get a few images through the intervening foliage and trees before the wolves moved off; however, the best was yet to come. As we got into position on the creek, the forest erupted into a chorus of howling wolves. The pack was very close, out of sight, but just across the creek. The howls reverberated throughout the entire forest. It was the longest and most amazing wolf howling session that I have ever experienced.

A young coastal wolf standing on mossy rocks in a forest stream, looking alert and calm; blurred water and greenery in the background.

Rain…

On day three the rains came. The Great Bear Rainforest is a temperate rainforest and when it rains it will test your gear. Everyone came well prepared for this, but a few of us encountered some challenges. For me the points of failure were a waterproof zipper and a dry bag. I would highly recommend that you check your gear thoroughly before heading out into this environment.

Exceptional Guides

Tim and Lee were amazing guides who actively shared their detail knowledge and passion for the bears and the ecosystem. Marven provided us with a unique understanding of the local wildlife, the environment and rich cultural history of the region as viewed and lived by the Gitga’at people.

A Spirit Bear in a shallow stream gripping a large salmon in its mouth, water splashing around mossy rocks.

Immersing Ourselves in the Ecosystem

Over the five and a half days we spent on the creeks we ended up finding all three Spirit Bears that are known to inhabit the island. This included multiple amazing encounters with the large male bear known as Łaaya. The trip, however, was about more than just the bears. Sitting creek-side for hours allowed us to immerse ourselves in the ecosystem: the pristine watershed necessary for the returning salmon, the spawning salmon themselves that in turn feed the bears, wolves, birds, insects and eventually provide nutrients for the forest floor, the stream and the ocean.

pink salmon spawningin a shallow stream, yellow-spotted tail fin raised amid clear water and mossy rocks.

Imprint on Your Soul

Overall it was a awesome trip back into the Great Bear Rainforest. Finding, observing and photographing the extremely rare Spirit Bear in this very special place is the opportunity of a lifetime; it will most certainly leave an imprint on your soul.

A Spirit Bear carefully climbing a moss-covered log in a dark, lush forest, head down and alert.

Planning a Trip?

For more information on this fantastic wildlife opportunity checkout Tim Irvin's website at Wildlife Journeys. You can also follow Tim, Lee and Marven on Instagram. In addition, you can watch or listen to the Beyond the Wild Podcast where Ron Hayes and I discuss the trip with co-host Jason Loftus.