Living on the Ice: An Expedition Along the Coast of Baffin Island

Stu Sharpe
Apr 30
3 min read

Updated: Aug 11

"The impact of the overall experience and the impression that the Arctic leaves on your soul cannot be put into words or shown in photographs — you need to go "feel" it for yourself"

Towering iceberg frozen in the sea ice of Baffin Bay, Nunavut — massive Arctic ice formation in the remote Canadian North — A Massive Iceberg Temporarily Trapped in the Ice of Baffin Bay

In April 2025, we joined an expedition trip in the Canadian Arctic, spending over a week camping on the sea ice off the northeastern coast of Baffin Island. It was our first time travelling in Nunavut, and while we weren’t sure what to expect — especially with the idea of living in unheated tents in subzero temperatures — it turned out to be one of the most rewarding travel experiences we’ve had.

April 11 – Arrival in Pond Inlet

Our adventure began with flights from Ottawa to Iqaluit, and then onward to Pond Inlet — a remote hamlet on the northern tip of Baffin Island. Meeting our group of six guests, a photographer, two southern guides, and three Inuit guides, we spent an unexpected but welcome night in Pond Inlet, adjusting to the Arctic community's sights, sounds and pace of life.

Southern traveller posing with smiling Inuit children in Pond Inlet, Nunavut — cross-cultural friendship in a northern Arctic community — Visiting With the Locals in Pond Inlet

April 12 – Setting Out on the Ice

Departing Pond Inlet, we embarked on a 100-kilometer journey along the frozen coastline of Baffin Island. Our convoy consisted of four snowmobiles pulling five traditional qamutiiks, laden with eager adventurers and supplies. The vast expanse of Baffin Bay stretched beside us, its icy surface dotted with ice ridges and towering icebergs — a silent testament to the region's grandeur.

Snowmobiles and qamutiiks led by Inuit guides near massive icebergs on Arctic sea ice — Indigenous transportation and landscape of Baffin Bay — Travelling Over The Ice

Life on the Ice: April 12–20

For nine days and eight nights, we lived on the sea ice in temperatures ranging from -15°C to -20°C; our unheated tents standing resilient against the winds. A storm on our second night made things intersting, but our tents held up, and our spirits remained high.

Days were spent traversing the frozen landscape, eyes peeled for polar bears and Arctic foxes. We collected ancient ice from icebergs for drinking and cooking, a routine that connected us to the environment in a meaningful way. The icebergs also provided us with vantage points from which to scout for bears on the ice. The scenery was a mix of snow-covered hills and rocky mountains on the Baffin Island side, and wide, flat expanses of sea ice stretching eastward across Baffin Bay, dotted with ice ridges and trapped icebergs. Greenland, though invisible, was just 650 km away.

A solitary polar bear navigates the sea ice of Baffin Bay, just off the coast of Baffin Island in Nunavut, Arctic Canada. This striking image captures the raw beauty and isolation of Arctic wildlife in its natural habitat during an expedition through the Canadian Arctic — a prime destination for adventure travel, wildlife photography, and eco-tourism — Life on the Ice

Our local Inuit guides shared stories and knowledge that enriched our understanding of their way of life and this unique ecosystem. Their expertise was very much appreciated, offering insights into a way of life that thrives in harmony with the Arctic environment.

A couple enjoying a chilly adventure in the Arctic, bundled up in warm jackets and beanies, with snowy hills of Baffin Island stretching behind them — Happiness is... a frozen beard. Photo Credit: Nelson Liu

April 20–22 – Return to Civilization

Returning to Pond Inlet, the comforts of a hot shower and a warm bed were welcome luxuries. The following day, we flew back to Iqaluit, spending one last night in Nunavut before our journey home.

"it offered a rare glimpse into the soul of the Arctic"

Reflections

Living on the ice in Nunavut went far beyond adventure travel — it offered a rare glimpse into the soul of the Arctic. The initial intimidation gave way to a profound appreciation for the land, its inhabitants, and the delicate balance they maintain. The impact of the overall experience and the impression that the Arctic leaves on your soul cannot be put into words or shown in photographs — you need to go "feel" it for yourself.

When travelling in the north bring an open mind and don't forget your sense of humour. Arctic travel demands flexibility, patience, and a light-hearted attitude. Delays, equipment issues, elusive wildlife, and changing weather are all part of the experience. Plans shift often, so success depends on your willingness and ability to adjust as conditions evolve.

Nunavut offers a kind of travel experience that’s hard to find elsewhere — remote, humbling, and with a deep connection to the land. On this trip we happily travelled with Baffin Safari, and would do so again. There are a few southern-based outfitters that offer similar experiences and there seem to be a growing number of local Inuit-owned outfitters offering Arctic adventures. For those seeking expedition travel that offers both challenge and enlightenment, Nunavut stands unparalleled. To learn more about planning your own Arctic adventure, visit Destination Nunavut.

For many more photos check out our trip gallery